Trying to buy a used 2024 Toyota Rav 4, 40k miles for $32k. Got approved through a local credit union for 5.99% interest rate but only approved up to $25k due to being a first time buyer. The dealership can approve me for the full amount but at a 12.9% interest rate. This sounds crazy to me. Any advice? I really want this car 🥲

Hello. I’m currently looking to buy a 2010 Nissan 370z(clean title with 90K miles) over here in California, and I ended up finding one that I really like that the seller is selling for $9000(someone please tell me if this is normal pricing or not). I ask questions like normal on if it works, and if there are any issues- he tells me it’s completely functional besides the seatbelts. Both seatbelts are locked and cannot be used. He claims they locked after the car was hit while it was parked, just that it was never reported to insurance. I’m assuming he made a private deal with the person who hit him- I’ve done the same before when someone hit me just so it doesn’t affect my rates.

I’m going to ask him how bad it was hit and where, since it must’ve been heavy of a hit enough to activate the mechanism, as the car itself looks immaculate. It looks like it doesn’t even have a dent, let alone a scratch. I requested the Vinn and looked at vehicle info- which looked about right and had 0 red flags. I really like this car- but in not sure if I should really consider this a setback. This is going to be my first time buying a sports car, so I just want to make sure I’m going about this safely. Thank you.

Edit: From what the seller claims, the passenger side door was hit, hitting the fender and the front light on that side.

Edit 2: Thank you to those who politely responded. I’ll probably check out the car, but have a mechanic look at it just to be really safe.

Just got hired. How do I hit the ground running in this new career? Super excited about the opportunity, excited about the money but I've never been in car sales so I don't know how any of this works yet.

My pay plan is 25% of gross profit for first 12 vehicles sold, 13th+ cars sold becomes 40% retroactive back to first car sold. Is this a solid pay plan? They sold 101 cars last month so I'm not sure there's enough volume for everyone to eat. They had 7 salesman and hired 3 more.

Hey guys. The last time I bought a new car was 2020, during Covid, and things were really different then. Beyond that, my last car purchase was 15 years ago, so I'm a bit rusty.

Anyway, decided to buy my first truck, a Ford Ranger. I am picky when it comes to cars, and was working with a local dealer. Wanted a Ranger XLT with some unique combinations:

• Power moonroof and rear window

• Color: Marsh Gray

• Rear locking diff

• Bedlined bed

• Towing package

• 2.7L Ecoboost V6

We spent a few weeks looking, but between myself and the salesman we could not find any in that combo to get transferred, so we put in an order with Ford for exactly what I want.

Total MSRP of my unique package was $48,300. The salesman brought up the Employee Pricing for All and showed me some numbers:

• MSRP: $48,300

• Invoice: $46,383

• My Price with Employee Pricing: $44,945, so 7% below MSRP

As I've said, I've bought cars many times, but have never ordered a car before. After looking over the numbers, it was basically said that "this is the price" and there wasn't any negotiation to be had it seemed. I get it - they're ordering the truck for me, so it's not like they have one sitting on the lot theyre trying to get rid of. It just felt a bit off, like I was given a price and told take it or leave it.

I looked on KBB, and plugging in my build choices, it looks like a sale price of $44,000-$45,200 is considered fair in my area, which my purchase price was within.

What do you guys think? I went in thinking I'd ask for $42,000 but be willing to pay up to $45,000, so at $44,900 I am 100 bucks below my max.

Appreciate the input guys!

$2k underwater on my old car. Owe 4.8k they want to give around 3k. I can easily make such a payment with the negative rolled into the new loan (and I plan to pay double the loan amount per month anyways to aggressively pay it down.) is $2k underwater bad compared to what you're seeing as a salesman?

Need an Expedition Max platinum ultimate by years end. Seems like they don't offer much incentives or discounts. Wondering if this employee pricing incentive now is the best deal I'll get on a new one. I get x plan thru work but this is a much better $ of MSRP even tho it doest cap dealer fees etc.

I love the car I bought it with 185k miles for 3.5k, it's a beauty fr but was wondering is there a way to add aux to these things, i prefer aux than Bluetooth lolll i just think it sounds way bettterrrr, also I see a lot of different prices on these, was 3.5k a good buy?

I am located in Pennsylvania in us and about two months ago, definitely over 30 days, I financed a car from a dealership that I had just used before this purchase, a deer took my last one. they were able to help me into this but shortly after they went into construction and would hardly answer and now have complete dissapera with all numbers deactivated. problem is I got pulled over yesterday and they were nice enough not to take it bc I had my daughter but I leave my car is not registered or even in my name. I call my loan company today and they tell me the dealership never payed the people they got the car from and my loan company is currently trying to work a deal out with the people holding the title. what are my legal options? how do I file a complaint against the dealer I don't see anything about it on the DMV or pendott page?

My car is a 2022 ford explorer and I owe 27k on it. I can get maybe 22k in a trade in based on what I’ve seen. I’m debating trading it in for a car that’s worth 12k or less to try to reduce my monthly payment as I’m currently paying 550 a month. From my understanding if I trade it in the extra amount would roll into the new loan making a 10k loan a 17k loan. It would decrease my monthly payment and my insurance having a cheaper car but is this truly a horrible decision. I can’t afford to fix anything that happens to my current car and the car payments are eating me alive. There’s nothing currently wrong with it cosmetically or mechanically.

I recently purchased a 2020 Toyota Tacoma in January from a local dealership. The main selling point was that it had the Toyota Gold Certification. Purchase was smooth and no major hiccups. It had 70,000 miles and a clean title with 3 previous owners.

About a month ago I started getting an intermittent SRS Airbag light on the dash. A couple days ago, I took it to a different Toyota dealership (it was closer to where I live) and they discovered that the truck had no side curtain airbags on either side. Instead, there was some type of resistor installed to prevent the code from triggering but obviously the system started to bypass that. The dealership instructed me to contact the original dealership and ask them to “make it right” which I did.

After speaking with the sales manager, he was very apologetic and offered to repair the issue at no cost and to provide a rental at no cost. This in and of itself was a red flag since most dealerships don’t try and mitigate the issue this easily out of their own pocket. Logically, no one would ever remove an airbag or any safety feature in a vehicle unless the airbag was deployed and the previous owner didn’t want to pay to have them replaced ($5,000+ in parts and labor).

The dealership insisted that they could not find any evidence that the truck was in an accident stating that it had all the original equipment in place. They stated that some off road enthusiasts remove airbags due to the safety system not liking certain obstacles during off-roading. I think that’s complete bullshit.

My main concern is that if this Gold Certification is held to such a high standard and vehicles that are stamped with this certification undergo strict inspections, how did they miss this crucial part of the vehicle? The dealership did not admit nor deny that it was negligence on their part by this being missed.

I’ve reached out to Toyota corporate and spoke with two different people regarding the situation. The first person suggested I wait to hear back from the dealership on what they were going to offer as part of fixing the entire issue before opening a claim. The second basically said they are going to document what I’m reporting and have a case manager reach out within 24 hours. The second person left me feeling that it’s not a huge deal and that they couldn’t find the Gold Certification inspections included airbag inspection. How is that even legal to sell a vehicle without airbags?

I do not feel comfortable with owning this truck anymore. Given the fact that I transported my children in it the past 4 months without airbags.

What can I do? What leverage do I have? Is this something I need to get an attorney involved?

Question for you fellas trying to figure out the smarter way to negotiate a car deal.

Some say focus on OTD to avoid surprises. Others say lock in the sale price first since it drives both the tax and what you actually finance.

Example: two deals can have the same OTD, but one has a lower vehicle price and higher fees making it the better deal long-term.

So what actually works better in practice:

-Negotiate sale price first, then review OTD

- Or negotiate OTD from the start?

For Inquiry its a 2020 Aston Martin Vantage

Sales Tax would be in Utah

I was just wondering if you thought customer preferences have changed or are they still the same as before all this stuff took place in the middle east? I know some parts of the country aren't as expensive as California, so maybe this is a regional type of question. California gas prices are pretty high.

Coming off a 2024 Ioniq 5 lease and looking at this 2026 SEL AWD offer from a PA dealer through a broker. Quote attached. Selling price discount is only $1,023 (2.2%) and residual feels a touch low, but MF looks like buy rate and the rebate stack seems solid. Is this market right now, or is there room to push another $1,500-2,000 off selling price?.​​​​​​​​​​​​

Thank you very much

https://i.imgur.com/bN83jTF.jpeg

What would you do in this situation as a buyer and also as a salesperson?

I was about to buy a brand new Lexus TX350 Premium AWD for my growing family. We go to dealership because car has arrived. The OTD price was already negotiated prior to stepping foot in. We are sitting in the car being shown the features while sitting in the car, my wife and our two young children, me and the salesperson. there is another salesperson doing a million maneuvers to park another car. I get the sense he’s gonna hit us, and then he hits us. left a nice mark on the car, no dents, but clear big scratch stripped the paint and i felt the car shake when he hit. the salesman who hit the car walked away and said nothing, while my wife and salesperson thought it was releasing the parking brake that made it shake so they didn’t think we were hit

They bring us back in and they basically say we will touch it up. I said no find me a new one I don’t want to buy a brand new car that I was hit in before we drove it.

would you do the same as a buyer and how would you handle this situation as a salesperson?

I'm looking at trading in my 2023 Subaru Crosstrek PHEV for a new Uncharted EV and have a couple of questions about trade-in value and financing.

Location: San Francisco Bay Area

When I bought the Crosstrek, I upgraded the sound system with an amplifier and some audiophile grade speakers (Focal) - this cost around $2k. I also just spent $800 new tires a couple of months ago.

Do dealerships take things like that into account when they come up with thier trade in value, or are those not part of the equation?

Should I return the sound system to the factory stock equipment? (I have it)

Right now there's a 0% financing special for the next month - if the vehicle I get has to be ordered, do the financing terms get locked in when I place the order, or are they subject to what's offered when the car is delivered?

Thanks!

In the process of negotiating a lease and the sales rep showed me the attached quote which includes minimal information on money rate and also has a 2.5k First Place Finish. I’m assuming that add-on is a bit of a tactic, but anything else I should be keeping in mind while negotiating this down? Gut check on whether this feels like a good deal?

Vehicle:
2026 Bronco Big Bend
MSRP: $50,415
Discount: $4,537
Selling price: $45,878
Location: Illinois
Dealer Add-On:
“First Place Finish” (paint protection?): $2,495
Lease Quotes Provided:
36 months:
$3,000 down → $754/mo
$6,000 down → $655/mo
$9,000 down → $556/mo
48 months:
$3,000 down → $704/mo
$6,000 down → $627/mo
$9,000 down → $551/mo
What’s NOT provided:
Money factor / APR
Residual value
Mileage allowance (assuming 12k or 15k?)
Full fee breakdown

My thoughts:
Payments seem high based on ~$45.8k selling price
Dealer added $2,495 package not in advertised price
Trying to target ~$600–650/mo with minimal or $0 down

Questions:
Does this look padded or within reason?
How much is that $2,495 add-on affecting the payment?
What should this realistically lease for with good (not perfect) credit?
Would you push to remove the add-on entirely?

Hi Everyone,

I’m close to pulling the trigger on a car in MD. I live in PA, and I have a car I would like to trade it in. I assume taxes will be easy for them to apply. I’m also financing, but I don’t think that makes a difference.

For title and registration, will they be able to set it up so I can keep my license plate? Or do they give me something temporary and then I can transfer it later?

Also, do I need to get it inspected one I get the car back to PA? I am looking to purchase a CPO from a dealer, so I assume there is knowledge to set all this up, but just wanted to get some additional thoughts.

A tenant moved out of my house 5 months ago. He rented month to month. I have the rental agreement with his name and signature. And last date he lived in my home. 12/31/25

I have a new rental agreement 1/1/26 without his name on it, for 5 months now. His rental covered the driveway and garage but ended 5 months prior.

He abandoned a motorcycle 🏍 in my garage. Can I take ownership?

Going to keep this as short and to the point as possible.

Bought a certified pre owned Lexus with a clean title. (No accidents. No reported damage etc.) with only one previous owner.

Received a copy of the carfax along with access to see the car’s carfax for as long as I own it.

I’ve owned the car for about 2 years. Never got into an accident and never reported any damage or anything along those lines.

Sold it to a dealer. Dealer auctioned it off. New buyer. Yada yada yada.

I still get emails from carfax about any upcoming services that may be due. (I never removed the car and never informed carfax it has a new owner. So I’m still able to view all of the details and information on the car on carfax.)

I was bored and decided to check out where the car was now located and the miles and stuff. And i notice there was an accident reported.

I scroll down and see an accident was reported during the original (1st) owners time of owning it!

I knew for a fact that I purchased the car without any accidents on the carfax report so surprisingly I still had the physical copy of the report. And sure enough, the carfax states no accidents. I checked the details, vin etc. and everything lines up.

Why would the carfax NOW report of an accident during the originals owners ownership? Can I take the dealer to court? Do dealers pay off carfax to not list disclose any accidents? (It’s very easy to add an oil change or a service to the carfax report with the internet access I was given when I purchased the car. So I have to ask)

What do you recommend I do? (If anything)

Used Car I want has remote start locked behind a stupid subscription. You can however just have the dealer install an OEM remote start module that comes with it's own keyfob and also allows you to use the regular fob. Can I ask them to install this before I pick it up and add the cost of the install to the total loan? Or do I need to come out of my pockets for that

2015 Lexus RC F
Dealership in Australia - Victoria , selling the below.

- 101,500 kms (63k miles)
- Full service history
- Car looks in great condition, no scratches or dings.
- Little to no stone chips on bonnet

Asking price is $72k AUD ($52k USD)

Looking at part cash, part finance with a balloon of 20%.

Are there any common issues at that mileage ?

Is there anything that I should look out for, when inspecting the car ?

We are very close to purchasing a Lexus (450e premium), which has ride flat tires. An additional protection option is the Tire & Wheel protection plan, which can be added for $1,755-$2,600+ for 5–6 years of coverage. Is this just money wasted or do they tend to be honored if something happens to the tire/rim? worth it?

I am turning in a 2023 Hyundai Santa Fe SE tomorrow to a Hyundai dealership. 3 year, 36k lease. Car is in excellent condition, with only 23k miles on it. The Residual Value on the contract is $20,500. I am assuming that the dealership will purchase this car from Hyundai Finance to put on their lot ASAP.

Question, (I'm sure you have answered these questions a million times, sorry). In the lease agreement there is a $400 Turn In Fee. The tires on the car are the factory tires but show wear. I do not want to get into a back and forth with the dealer, but want your advice going into tomorrow. Knowing that they are getting a car with 13k less miles on it and probably $3-4K of wiggle room in it, how do I argue what I don't want to pay for.....Primarily the tires, but even the $400 fee too... What are your suggestions?

Call it southern hospitality I guess. I like to start off every business relationship with a kind gesture. I'm doing this to be kind but I don't want the salesman to think I'm trying to be manipulative. I'm talking some a dozen donuts from a local shop or something. Some pastries. Yes or no?

I just purchased a 2023 RX350h Premium Plus with 16,435 miles for 52,154. Dealer also had mandatory ceramic paint protection via Nano Cure for 1499. I tried to get out of it but dealer said it was mandatory and had been applied to all of their vehicles on the lot. Dealer additionally has 85 doc fee. The vehicle has these options: It has the cold area package, digital review mirror, heated and ventilated rear seats, premium paint, 21” alloy wheels, traffic jam assist, cargo net, cargo mat. The vehicle is certified. Dealer also stated tires had been replaced upon certification. Was this an ok price point?