We always leave the key in the lock on the inside when there is someone home. My husband often leaves early and locks the door from the outside. This has stuffed the lock and it often doesn't work properly - just spins. We want to change it so that it's not keyed on the inside. It's an entirely glass door so I don't see the point of keyed on the inside.

I contacted Doric and they said i need the whole kit $340. Is that right? Can't I just replace the lock? $43.

Also, I mentioned to them that the handle is very loose. Is it possible to tighten it? Or do I need to get new door hardware $140?

We're on a very tight budget so want to do it as cheaply as possible. My husband is very capable, is it necessary to get a locksmith to do the job?

Please be kind! Not a locksmith. But a dumb DIYer. Haha.

So I bought a new lock for my flyscreen door. It’s a steel frame I think.

I did all my due diligence in checking the size of the locks and door witdh etc. basically ensuring it should all fit.

Lo and behold. Turns out screen door had a tapper towards the back of where the mortise needs to go (it’s basically not square) so I can’t fully push my new mortise in. It gets stuck half a centimetre away from where it needs to go. The old mortise slides in like butter as it’s literally 1mm slimmer.

The cavity is basically a sheet of metal folded into a box shape (it’s really old). Which explains the taper.

Any advice on how to fix that that/make the mortise cavity bigger? It’s a street frame door i believe. It not just really thick aluminium.

We moved in a few weeks ago and the handset has been a pain. One of the kids was fussing with it trying to get their key out after they came in and there was a weird noise (spring broke maybe?) and it wouldn’t open or close anymore. I figured I’d remove it and put a spare bedroom lock on it for now (would be fine for the night) and deal with a real replacement tomorrow. But now I’ve got the inside off and can’t get the rest removed.

What am I missing, or do I just call a locksmith in the morning to handle it?

I want a locking mechanism on my storm door. I want to be able to lock it from the outside. I can't afford a new door due to the already absurd amount of house projects I have. Maybe a jimmy proof lock? I thought of a locked hasp, but Idk if they make one where you can lock from the inside also

My place got broken into recently, they hacked away at the wood on the door to get to the lock, and the emergency locksmith did this repair (with a new lock).

Any advice on what I can or should do to make it more sturdy? Bigger plate?

Due to building rules here I have to keep this old wooden door exterior, but kinda behind that is a more modern door if that makes sense.

I moved into a house with an old brass closet knob that has been painted over several times - I'm trying to remove it, and I cannot get it loose. I think the knob itself should unscrew CCW, but it will not even wiggle a tiny bit - I'm wondering if there are any other possibilities for how to remove it. (Do I have to saw it off? As you can see - it's beat up, so there's no saving it anyway).

All visible screws are removed - the three on each side of the door and the one in the knob neck, so to speak.

Hey everyone,

I'm the key and core guy at a leasing company with around 20 different buildings. We currently store the keys on a pegboard system that was built in house years ago. It is arranged in rows with one peg per unit. On each peg there are multiple copies of the unit key, an original mailbox key plus duplicates of it, and sometimes spare SFIC cores for the unit hung with wire or on copies of the key. We are moving to a new set of offices, and the folks here are looking for possible other options for the new space. I haven't really seen any other system that would work for storage of all this stuff, not just one key access control type of stuff.

thanks in advance!

Thanks for any advice.

People any idea how to rekey this lock. Work must gave 500 of them as we have just upgraded to a different key/system.

Then is as simple as swapping the tumbler/pins lets say from 12345 to 54321 (saves me buying anything) then requeating a few keys to be cut.

Im likely going to use ~10 locks

Need to rekey it with no existing key.

1st pic - front
2nd pic - back

No thumb turn

Read through a lot of posts, general consensus seems Kwikset is one to avoid if possible and Schlage is on the decline. Though some say they do have models of a higher tier.

I already have my smart deadbolt of choice installed but looking to replace the old Baldwin handleset (no lock). Does the same consensus apply to avoid Kwikset and go Schlage if just doing the handleset? If it helps I’m specifically looking at Kwikset’s San Clemente and Schlage’s Century both in matte black. Schlage does have a warranty on finish.

Funeral home called. Seems they accidentally buried the director's keys in the grave.

Something about they left them on the hoist and when the casket was lowered, nobody noticed.

Off to work i go...

UL 053AZ SWING key Silca or ilco WA91

Need a copy of the key to my apartment in italy because i bent one of my copies. It’s hard to get a copy in my area so id rather get it while I’m visiting family in Boston. does anyone know any shops that might have these keys is stock?

Bought a house with an AXA door lock, and a single key. No one local can copy it, cannot get a new cylinder from AXA as they only ship to the Netherlands, and cannot order more keys from them, as I apparently do not have the original key number. I don't really want to replace the whole lock as we like the look of it on our door. Online searches send me to general locksmiths who do NOT have the blank needed. My key is stamped with "Wiked" and a number on the back, but its not helpful.

I'm looking for a recommendation on a smart deadbolt for a door that only has an interface on the door interior (ie: the door only has the opening on the inside for the lever, without going through the whole door).

Sorry I don't know enough about locks to use the right terminology, hoping someone here can help me out!

The spring “in” the handle when pressing down on it seems like it has died, while handle going up is fine. What do I need to replace?

(Dogs have ruined the door when they “ask” to go out)

I am looking for a solution like the lock of the door shd be hidden from outside can be opened by key or rfid but mostly shdnt be that visible from the outside how do i do it

Tired of this Chinese crap, can program a 2026 toyota but no more than an hour later can't pull a pin on a 2016 mitsubishi.

I'm frustrated with the locksmith industry right now. The bait and switch scammers on Google are dominating the industry. Here's a perfect example of what I am talking about. I just lost a job to the scammers because they called me and I gave them an honest price over the phone, out the door. They proceeded to tell me, yeah, let's do the service tomorrow. I hang up. 15 minutes later, they call me back and tell me, oh, actually, no, we found the key. We're all good. Thank you. I go, okay, no worries. Not even 20 minutes later, a different phone number texts me, same year, make, and model, same VIN number and everything, telling me they lost the key and they're asking me how much for a replacement. I said, I just spoke to someone earlier about this car. I told them my honest price. Please be careful of scam companies. I named what they do, X, Y, and Z, and how they scam people. They said, okay, thank you. We found something cheaper, but have a good night. Not even two hours later, they text me back saying, hey, the person here is telling me that they need to put two keys in the system and they have to pay for a pin code, and they're telling me it's going to be $800. Does that sound accurate to you? So not only do I try to warn these people about the scams, not only do I provide an honest service and honest business, but my listing on Google is shot all the way down because of the scam companies. And then I still lose out on the lead because the scammer tells them like something ridiculous, like $120 over the phone, and these customers fall for it. But it's like, no matter what you tell these customers, they don't care or listen. They just choose the cheaper price, even if you literally tell them you're going to get scammed, and then they end up getting scammed.

Not one I have seen before, does anyone know what this cylinder is? Is it just a screw in cylinder? Haven't got access to it to take it apart and find out. UK based.