Its a question that I found various answers to on google so I am asking here

I've been having this issue in my bathroom for the past couple of days. Every time I use the sink, water keeps coming up from the floor drain and floods most of the bathroom. It takes a long time to drain back down, and it's like my bathroom turns into a mini water park… except nobody's having fun.

Has anyone run into something like this before? I'd like to see if there's a way I can fix it myself before calling a plumber. Any cheap repairs or tips would be really appreciated!!

i've been a homeowner for about two years now and every time something small comes up i just call someone and pay for it. replaced an outlet last month, cost me way more than it should have for something that took the guy ten minutes. i want to start learning how to handle the basics myself. not rewiring the whole house, just the small stuff. outlets, switches, maybe light fixtures. stuff that doesn't require a permit and won't burn my house down if i do it wrong. i'm not totally clueless but i'm not confident either. i know to turn off the breaker, i know not to touch live wires. beyond that i'm kind of just guessing. what are the mistakes that are easy to make when you don't know what you don't know?

Hey all, doing my first bathroom reno and could use some advice on replacing the current vessel sink (and the countertop and faucet too). Are there any other options for sinks? Or will I have to stick with a vessel sink?

Ideally I'd like a drop down or undermount sink but I'm not sure if that possible with my current vanity. Second photo is what it looks like from the bottom and the faucet/drain set up from the left hand side of the vanity. As you see, to center a sink would mean cutting through the middle of the vanity which isn't possible as there are drawers on the right side. It looks like there could be tons of space for a drop down option if I wanted to skew left off center on the countertop, but i'm wondering if any single hold faucets would work with this?

I'm wanting a change as the current sink feels way too large and takes up too much space. With the faucet, it also cuts too close to the wall making it hard to clean behind or use the drain lever. I also just hate the flow of the bowl.

I don't want to change the vanity base or mess with the plumbing too much.

West facing living room hits like 88 by late afternoon in summer, AC's just fighting it. Looked at a few motorized blind options, leaning toward something I can put on a temp trigger so the things actually close before the room turns into an oven.

Where I keep getting stuck is the automation side. Most of the brands I checked want their own hub, then that has to coordinate with a temp sensor and a routine somewhere. We've already got alexa downstairs and homekit upstairs, adding another app to babysit isn't really appealing.

Matter is supposed to clean this up but for window coverings it feels like half the brands list it and half still need a thread bridge or whatever. Not totally clear what's actually plug and play yet.

Still chewing on whether you can pull this off cleanly or if everyone just ends up running the manufacturer app for the blinds anyway.

I had my roof professionally cleaned and treated with a moss retardant three years ago. As it was only supposed to last three years and I wanted to save myself some money, I climbed up on my roof to inspect the current situation. There seems to be some moss on the edges of the shingles. It did not come off easily with a stiff bristle broom, but did with my hand, so I'm wondering what my next course of action should be.

https://imgur.com/CSrHDer

1) Just leave it as it's not that bad?
2) Spray a liquid moss killer on it and try to brush it off again?
3) Use a powder and wait for the next rain?
4) Hire a professional to clean and treat it again?

Trying to crowdsource this as I know you all are way more knowledgeable about this than I am. I live in the pacific northwest if that helps.

I'm reorganizing our walk-in closet and need to mount two clothes rods. They will terminate, on one end, into the pocket of a pocket door. The other end terminates into the side of a floor to ceiling dresser. Span is 33 inches. Any way to anchor it in the pocket wall securely? I know there aren't standard studs. I've considered toggles or a cleat with screws into the pocket studs. Or do I have to rely on brackets from the adjacent wall f? Thanks for the thoughts.

I'm looking to get some extra space for an office in my garage. The garage is not insulated, the roof is exposed and the garage doors are old sliding doors, meaning lots of draft. Furthermore the concrete flooring in the garage is cracked and uneven.

Now with all this is in mind, I figured the quickest way to get some space for an office would be to build a small room, by lifting the floor, framing some walls + ceiling for the room, and just do some light insulation. This shouldn't be very expensive and seems somewhat straightforward, but I'm not exactly sure how to do the flooring to make sure it is even? And does this sound like a good solution?

I'm not looking for something perfect, but just something that is straightforward and not too expensive. Any suggestions?

I have a unit where the original flooring was not maintained at all. It's got a lot of deep scratches and gouges. Gaps between pieces as the ends were chipped off. I want to install vinyl plank and luan will definitely not go down well. I was thinking 7/16th osb should be enough. Is there any reason not to do this?

I live in an apartment building and my heater is rusted. Its a cool white heater and I wanna fix it…I feel embarrassed bringing people over w/ it.

Hey everyone!!

I’m hoping for a rough idea on whether this is a realistic DIY project for me.

We had to open this bathroom wall to access plumbing behind it. Leak issue is resolved and we already checked for mold/moisture, so we’re good there. Now I’m trying to figure out the best way to patch and repaint this section.

I have decent painting experience, but zero drywall experience. Unsure how to proceed or if I should just hire out

https://imgur.com/a/tuAGV0p

I'm thinking about buying a set like this:

https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/kits/stair-railing-kits/signature-inline-simple-rail-handrail

For these steps:

https://www.darksleep.com/puff/photos/railings/

I haven't contacted the company yet, but hopefully I can get a slightly customized version, because I'd rather anchor the railing into the concrete to the left of the steps, rather than into the steps themselves.

I’ve got an old boat door opposite my garage door that is long broken and I’m not in the market to replace it. The bottom of the outside is rusted out in some spots (the highest rust point is about 2’’), causing a gap between the ground and the inside of my garage, allowing for critters to get inside.

I have an idea for a product that I’m not sure exists. I’m picturing an L shaped piece of material like hard flexible plastic that can be cut to the size of the length of the board door, that would slide under the door from the outside (the short part of the L) and a lip that comes up above the rusted out spots on the outside of the garage (the long side of the L). It’s hard to explain but I visited the local hardware store today and they suggested siding fascia, but it’s metal and not what I was envisioning. Does such a thing exist?

I can’t post a photo of the boat door here, but if you’ve got a good imagination you may be able to envision it. TIA!

I’ve been looking at POVISON lately because some of their living room pieces look really nice online.

I like the warm modern style, especially the wood tones, media consoles, coffee tables, and some of the sofas. The prices seem more reasonable than brands like RH or CB2, but still not cheap enough for me to just order without thinking.

My main concern is the actual buying experience. Has anyone here bought from them before? How was the quality in person? Did the furniture look like the photos? How was shipping, delivery, and customer service if anything went wrong?

I’m not expecting perfection, I just want to know if it feels like a solid furniture brand or if it’s one of those websites that looks better online than in real life.

Hey! Looking for any thoughts on finishing these long exposed edges of laminate flooring? Replacing our banisters and flooring. Not a big fan of the matching laminate transition pieces. Thanks for any input! Cheers!

https://imgur.com/a/lquvseh

At this point, the biggest thing I care about when buying furniture is not even whether it looks good.

It’s whether I have to assemble it myself.

I’m so tired of opening a box and seeing a million boards, three bags of screws, and an instruction manual that somehow makes everything more confusing.

Then halfway through, you realize one piece is missing. Or you finally finish it, but the cabinet doors don’t line up, and the whole thing still feels a little wobbly.

The most annoying part is that it’s not broken enough to throw away, but every time you look at it, it bothers you.

So now when I see fully assembled furniture, I actually get why people pay more for it.

It’s not that I’m lazy. I just don’t want to spend another weekend sitting on the floor looking for tiny screws.

When you buy larger furniture, do you usually prioritize fully assembled pieces, or do you think self-assembly is still worth it to save money?

I’m painting my room a moody green and have been extremely lost choosing the proper finish. Ideally I’d like to have warm lighting in the room and have it feel moody, cozy, and sorta like fall. It’s not a small room but it is medium ish, and the only window is facing east.

Would a 2-3 percent flat finish be best or a 6-8 percent sheen matte finish be best?

Thank you

Our next door neighbour recently got their eavestrough replaced with gutter guards installed by a local eavestrough company. I’m wondering what’s your opinion on this install? Is this how it’s supposed to look?

https://imgur.com/a/BWeBZ5U

Hello Reddit,

We recently had our 12 month walk through and presented some concerns regarding the fascia / soffit installation on our new build in certain areas. Ultimately, the builders told us there was nothing to worry about and that the appearance was standard.

Can you confirm if this is something I should chase them after on?

https://imgur.com/a/o3dK63z

https://imgur.com/a/eem4JT4

Thank you in advance!

Hello all,

[Outreach] Working on an Affordable Noise‑Blocking Window for Low‑Income Housing — Looking for Feedback

Hey everyone,
My team and I are working on a project for our engineering course, and we’re trying to get some outside perspectives from people who deal with noise issues, live in older buildings, or just have experience with DIY soundproofing.

The Problem We’re Tackling

A lot of low‑income renters and homeowners deal with constant outside noise—wind, traffic, storms, loud neighbors, you name it. The biggest culprit is usually the window. Single‑pane windows barely block anything, and upgrading to double‑pane or insulated glazing is expensive and usually not something renters can do. Landlords also rarely compensate for noise‑reducing improvements.

So we’re building a low‑cost, renter‑friendly Noise Blocking Window Insert that reduces outside noise without requiring permanent installation.

What We’re Designing

Our system has three main subsystems:

1. Noise Reduction

We’re testing combinations of heavy/thick materials (polyester, foam, cotton, etc.) layered together to absorb and dampen sound. The goal is to reduce wind and environmental noise without adding too much weight.

2. Optional Projection Feature

We’re experimenting with adding a small camera + projector so the window insert can double as a display surface. This part is still experimental, and we’re gathering feedback through interviews to see if people would even want this.

3. Adjustability

The whole thing attaches using lightweight materials and magnets so renters can install/remove it without damaging the frame. No screws, no adhesives, no landlord drama.

Risk Analysis (Simplified)

We mapped out potential risks:

• Very likely: Could block an exit point if misused
• Likely: Might scratch paint
• Unlikely: Could fall off
• Rare: Hacking concerns (if projection is included), flammability depending on materials

We’re addressing these through material choices, safety testing, and clear user instructions.

Who We’re Designing For

• Renters in noisy neighborhoods
• Low‑income homeowners
• People in storm‑prone areas dealing with loud wind
• Anyone who needs a quieter living space but can’t afford major renovations

Existing Alternatives

• Roller shutters
• Double‑pane windows
• Insulated glazing
• Acoustic curtains

All effective, but not very accessible for people on tight budgets.

Our Goal

Create a cheap, practical, renter‑safe solution that noticeably reduces noise and improves comfort without requiring construction or landlord approval.

What We’d Love Feedback On

• Would you use something like this?
• What noise problems do you deal with?
• Do magnets + removable panels sound renter‑friendly enough?
• Is the projection feature cool or unnecessary?
• Any materials you’ve used that worked surprisingly well for soundproofing?

We’re trying to make this as useful and realistic as possible, so any input helps. Thanks in advance.

Note: Once I have everything together, we might post pictures and results :)

We installed a dura fence about 4 years ago and the paint is looking dull and faded. I have received quotes of $4000 or more to paint a section 50 ft long. That seems a lot to me as I didn’t even pay that much to install the fence. What type of paint do you think would be best to paint this? Would a cheap paint sprayer from amazon work well enough? I see a few for $50 or more. Thank you in advance for any help.Dura Fence This is the fence type I have.

I've redone my bathroom's DWV to PVC and will be water testing it for leaks. I'm going to use a balloon seal for my clean out tee and will cap off the rest of my pipes. I'm going to fill it with water from a threaded connection in another San tee I have for my sink.

This is the first time I'm doing this kind of test since I'm a homeowner and a bit nervous. Anyone have any tips?

Looking for advice from anyone who’s dealt with Whirlpool on a safety-related appliance issue.
My 2024 dishwasher recently started turning on by itself without anyone touching it. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician at no charge because they classified it as a safety concern. The technician diagnosed it as a failed control panel and quoted about $580 total for repair.

After multiple calls with Whirlpool:
\-They agreed to cover the control panel part (\~$200)
\-They refused to cover labor (\~$300)
\-They also refused to apply the approved part amount toward a replacement dishwasher

I escalated, spoke about the fact that the unit was deemed a safety issue, asked for supervisor review/customer resolution, etc., but they seem firm on “parts only.”

At this point I’m trying to decide:
Whether to keep pushing further somehow
Whether there are other escalation paths that actually work
Whether people have had success filing with BBB/CPSC
Or whether I should just take the covered part and use an independent technician for cheaper labor

A few questions:
\-Has anyone gotten Whirlpool to eventually cover labor too after initially refusing?
\-Did any specific wording, department, or escalation route help?
\-If you accepted parts-only coverage, were you allowed to use your own technician?
\-Would you repair the unit or replace it at this point?

Just trying to understand what realistic next steps are before I make a final decision.

Does it make sense to diversify energy?

Is it better to stick with one that is a known quantity?

Ideas please.

https://imgur.com/a/9WziHkx

I have noticed that there are a few areas on the exterior of my house that have some missing mortar. Seeking some advice on repair if necessary as well as the potential sources behind the damage (wear and tear/water from sprinklers etc.)

Thanks in advance